Everest Base Camp Trek Day 9: The Long Walk Back
The Return Begins
After days of pushing through altitude, exhaustion, and the biting cold, Day 9 marks the beginning of the return journey from Everest Base Camp. You’d think going downhill would be easier… but the Himalayas have their own rules. The descent has its own set of challenges — and more than a few surprises.
The Cold Morning
Another frigid start to the day — my breath visible in the thin air.
It’s brutally cold when I step out of the teahouse. My body is stiff, my lungs are slow to catch up, and the altitude still lingers like a weight on my chest. My guide Bhupal, ever the gentleman, offers to carry my bag — again. Yesterday, I had no choice. I was practically knocked out from altitude sickness. But today? I’m stubborn. I want to carry my own gear.
To be fair, Bhupal still carries my water bottle — just to take some of the weight off and make my “tough guy” act slightly more realistic. As the sun slowly rises and kisses the Himalayan peaks, I finally notice just how beautiful this place is. It’s the kind of morning where even the cold can't dull the view.
Helicopters Overhead
Helicopters are a lifeline here — and a reminder of the danger.
A chopper slices through the mountain air above us. It’s both a lifeline and a warning. These helicopters rescue trekkers who can’t go on — or worse. Altitude sickness doesn’t care how fit you are. I feel lucky that I’m walking today instead of flying.
An Empty Trail and Stunning Sunrise
Peaceful and surreal — a sunrise that makes you pause.
There’s something magical about hiking in silence. The trail is nearly empty this morning. The peace is striking. With the worst of my altitude sickness behind me, I can finally take in the beauty around me — golden sunlight filtering through the rugged terrain, casting long shadows and lighting the trail like a postcard.
The Unstoppable Porters
Himalayan porter carrying a massive pack down the Everest Base Camp route.
I’m just starting to feel proud of myself for carrying my pack when I see a porter with what looks like an entire shed strapped to his back. These guys are machines. Quiet, humble, and absolutely relentless. As we descend the ridge, I glance down at the little villages tucked into the valley — and feel deeply humbled. There’s nowhere else in the world quite like this.
Bathroom Reality
Let’s talk toilets — or lack thereof. There aren’t any out here. When nature calls, you find a rock, duck behind it, and hope no one walks by. It’s one of the many things no one warns you about. But hey, it’s part of the experience.
Walking on Ice
Tread carefully — even tiny patches of ice can end your trek.
You don’t need a dramatic fall to end your trek — just one misstep on a frozen trail. I’ve learned to tread like I’m sneaking past a sleeping dragon: light, careful, and completely focused. Even tiny patches of ice demand full respect.
Yak Traffic Jam
Yak bells — the soundtrack of the Himalayas.
Yaks are the traffic of the trail. Although these are Jokpey. They move slow, steady, and totally unconcerned with your personal hiking goals. Their handlers give a shout, the bells around their necks jingle, and they make their way through like ancient mountain royalty. I’ve grown to love them. They’re my spirit animals out here.
The Fork in the Trail
Back to the fork where our hidden path began — new route, new view.
We finally return to a familiar fork in the road — the spot where we took a lesser-known detour days ago. This time, we stick to the main trail. There’s something satisfying about seeing a route you’ve already conquered and knowing a new path — and new views — lie ahead.
Exploring Tengboche Monastery
One of the largest monasteries in the region — peaceful and nearly empty.
Despite still feeling the lingering effects of altitude sickness, I was excited to reach Tengboche — home to one of the most significant monasteries in the Everest region. The climb felt like a marathon, but the reward was well worth it. The monastery’s size and architecture are breathtaking. Even better, it was nearly empty when we arrived, allowing us to quietly explore the courtyard and soak in the spiritual calm of the space.
Filming inside is strictly forbidden, which makes the experience feel even more sacred. We took our time, walking the perimeter in silence. Then, just as we were about to leave, the clouds cleared — and we got a clear view of Mount Everest peeking through the horizon. That unexpected glimpse of the summit from Tengboche felt like a quiet gift from the mountain itself.
Arrival in Namche Bazaar
Arriving in Namche feels like civilization after days in the high Himalayas.
After a long descent, we finally reached Namche Bazaar — the bustling gateway town of the Khumbu region. It was surreal to walk familiar streets, see familiar bakeries, and hear the soft chatter of other trekkers. The altitude is lower, the air is thicker, and for the first time in days, I could breathe easily. I grabbed a tea, took off my boots, and just sat still. There’s something healing about Namche. It’s the last major stop before Lukla, and a great place to refuel — physically and emotionally.
The Massage Search
Every step hurts. A massage? Yes, please.
After walking more than 70 miles, my legs were done. I decided to treat myself and find a massage in Namche. It took a bit of wandering — some places were closed, others booked up. But eventually, I found a quiet place run by a Sherpa woman with strong hands and a kind smile. That massage was like magic. If you’re doing this trek, trust me: save your rupees for this moment.
📍 Google Maps Links
Massage Center I went to.
✍️ Final Thoughts
Day 9 was a turning point. I wasn’t fully recovered, but I was walking again — and appreciating every step. From eerie sunrises to yak crossings and porters who put my endurance to shame, this day reminded me that the trek down can be just as powerful as the trek up.